After an exhausting flight I finally arrived in Beijing. The plane left Detroit in the afternoon and and we chased the sun west and headed north crossing Alaska. The sun was shining bright on the Alaskan fjords visible out of the left side of the cabin and I had a great view of an enormous glacier meeting the sea. Unfortunately, my camera was not in hand.
After nearly 24 hours of travel time I arrived in Beijing late in the evening and glided through customs. The HR coordinator and a driver were waiting outside the airport for me, complete with a sign with my name on it. They took me to meet my homestay.
Surprisingly, my host (whose name I still don't know) did not speak more than about 10 words of English. He was able to warn me that my tea was "hot" and that these horrid looking bean curd snacks had "no meat". I told the company ahead of time that I was a vegetarian and I guess they passed it on to my host. Truthfully, it was thoughtful of him to have on hand these vegetarian snacks but I really had no interest in trying new mystery foods at this point-- I was exhausted. It is very difficult to graciously decline in pantomime. I tried to look thankful, waived off his bean curd offering, drank my tea, and "excused" myself (by placing my hands together at a 45 degree angle and laying my head on top) to the bed in the other room.
I spent the next three nights at his place. In the morning he would take me to the downtown office of the company I work for and then pick me up in the evening. I think it is worth mentioning that his middle-class apartment in Beijing would be reserved for the poorest residents of the US. It was about 400 square feet-- 2 small rooms, a small kitchen with 2 burners, and a bathroom that was maybe 3 feet by 5 feet. The shower sprays right out into the middle of the bathroom. In contrast his car was among the nicest I have ridden in: a nearly new Volkswagen that I can't imagine sells for any less than US$35 or 40K. This seems typical of Beijing's middle class-- very modest homes and very fine automobiles. I think we have all heard how China's citizens have been buying cars at a very high rate, but what I didn't imagine was that they are buying expensive cars and very large cars. I expected Indian, Korean, and Chinese manufatured compact cars but that is not the case. Buicks are undoubtedly more popular here than in the US.
After nearly 24 hours of travel time I arrived in Beijing late in the evening and glided through customs. The HR coordinator and a driver were waiting outside the airport for me, complete with a sign with my name on it. They took me to meet my homestay.
Surprisingly, my host (whose name I still don't know) did not speak more than about 10 words of English. He was able to warn me that my tea was "hot" and that these horrid looking bean curd snacks had "no meat". I told the company ahead of time that I was a vegetarian and I guess they passed it on to my host. Truthfully, it was thoughtful of him to have on hand these vegetarian snacks but I really had no interest in trying new mystery foods at this point-- I was exhausted. It is very difficult to graciously decline in pantomime. I tried to look thankful, waived off his bean curd offering, drank my tea, and "excused" myself (by placing my hands together at a 45 degree angle and laying my head on top) to the bed in the other room.
I spent the next three nights at his place. In the morning he would take me to the downtown office of the company I work for and then pick me up in the evening. I think it is worth mentioning that his middle-class apartment in Beijing would be reserved for the poorest residents of the US. It was about 400 square feet-- 2 small rooms, a small kitchen with 2 burners, and a bathroom that was maybe 3 feet by 5 feet. The shower sprays right out into the middle of the bathroom. In contrast his car was among the nicest I have ridden in: a nearly new Volkswagen that I can't imagine sells for any less than US$35 or 40K. This seems typical of Beijing's middle class-- very modest homes and very fine automobiles. I think we have all heard how China's citizens have been buying cars at a very high rate, but what I didn't imagine was that they are buying expensive cars and very large cars. I expected Indian, Korean, and Chinese manufatured compact cars but that is not the case. Buicks are undoubtedly more popular here than in the US.
Despite the rapid development, many people still get to work the old fashion way here. The best site so far is watching a true critical mass of bikes assembling to cross traffic. When enough bikes are there, they shoot out into traffic and cars stop. There is a huge juxtaposition between traffic here and in the US. Here nobody obeys traffic laws but everyone is attentive and alert. In the US, the opposite. It truly looks like chaos at first but it really does work-- traffic moves here but in its own way.
My first impressions of the company I work for are poor. They provided me with inadequate information before arriving and the "training" consisted of a 45 minute powerpoint given by a fellow teacher. In the States they told me I would be teaching less than 30 students-- 2 of my 3 classes have 50 students. I was supposed to work until August 5-- they now want me until August 20. I was told I would be working 8 consecutive days folowed by a few days off-- there are sections on my schedule where I work 20 consecutive days and only twice do I have 2 consecutive days off. But here I am, in China, making the best of it because I don't really have any other choice.
My first impressions of the company I work for are poor. They provided me with inadequate information before arriving and the "training" consisted of a 45 minute powerpoint given by a fellow teacher. In the States they told me I would be teaching less than 30 students-- 2 of my 3 classes have 50 students. I was supposed to work until August 5-- they now want me until August 20. I was told I would be working 8 consecutive days folowed by a few days off-- there are sections on my schedule where I work 20 consecutive days and only twice do I have 2 consecutive days off. But here I am, in China, making the best of it because I don't really have any other choice.
Where I teach. Notice the polution. This photo was taken at about 1 pm. Everyday looks like this. I have seen the sun only 2 or 3 times and looks more like a full moon. You can stare right at it without sunglasses.
After the "training" at the downtown office, they took me to the school that contracts me to teach. It is about 30 minutes north of citycenter and (for all I am concerned) is in the middle of nowhere. It is a large campus (about the size of a suburban high school in the states) complete with a cafeteria, track, and outdoor excercise machines. The staff at the school have been very hospitable. They even deliver hot water in a thermos to my room every morning and evening.
Eliptical
I thought Lay's Potato Chips would be safe. Not so. They had 4 choices. I bought Cucumber. The alternatives-- pictured here-- were Crispy Prawn, Chicken Dinner, or Spicy Seafood.
Eating Vegetarian has been very difficult. Chicken stock and shrimp flakes are as ubiquitous here as is salt and pepper in the united states. One restaraunt I went to had a vegetarian section on the menu featuring items like "Mein in Oyster Sauce". Here, I settled on a corn with pine nuts dish and when it arrived it was in a sauce that had a gelatinous consistancy that I don't think can be obtained without boiling chicken bones. I ate it anyways.
Beijing's pollution is remarkable. It goes somewhat unnoticed when I breath but it does burn my eyes a little. It takes a large toll on visibility though. Honestly, I have not seen the sun since I arrived for more than 2 or 3 seconds. It is depressing and brings to mind a nuclear winter. Even objects as close as 100 yards are blurred by smog.
Eating Vegetarian has been very difficult. Chicken stock and shrimp flakes are as ubiquitous here as is salt and pepper in the united states. One restaraunt I went to had a vegetarian section on the menu featuring items like "Mein in Oyster Sauce". Here, I settled on a corn with pine nuts dish and when it arrived it was in a sauce that had a gelatinous consistancy that I don't think can be obtained without boiling chicken bones. I ate it anyways.
Beijing's pollution is remarkable. It goes somewhat unnoticed when I breath but it does burn my eyes a little. It takes a large toll on visibility though. Honestly, I have not seen the sun since I arrived for more than 2 or 3 seconds. It is depressing and brings to mind a nuclear winter. Even objects as close as 100 yards are blurred by smog.
1 comment:
Jesus, I thought the gray sky meant it was going to rain.
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